Teaching

A lot has been said about Georgia already on this blog, but it’s time to talk about the reason we are here in the first place – to teach!

I work with one co-teacher, Tamo, at the Jurukveti Public School #1, which is a ~15 minute walk from my house. We teach 5 lessons per day to grades 1-7 on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday.

Being a first time teacher, I was definitely nervous before getting started. How would I like working with the kids? What would it be like working with a co-teacher? What would be my role in the classroom, and what kind of impact would I be able to make?

Now that I’ve gotten a couple of weeks of teaching under my belt, I can say that I am really enjoying it! I feel very fortunate to have been placed at this school, with this co-teacher, and with this class schedule.

My school is quite old (my host dad went there as a child), but the classrooms were recently renovated. Tamo and I stay in one classroom, and the kids come to us (at many schools the teachers are the ones that rotate classrooms). This is great because we have actually been able to decorate our room with English-language posters to help create an inviting and stimulating learning space for our students. My co-teacher has been really enthusiastic about decorating the classroom, even bringing in supplies from home.

Speaking of my co-teacher, Tamo is really great, and I feel very lucky to be working with her. Volunteers often work with up to 3 co-teachers, but she is the only English teacher at my school (she teaches at another school on Mondays and Fridays, hence my days off). She is a young teacher, so she is open to new teaching techniques, she is already familiar with many games, and she is very receptive to my ideas and suggestions. She has also worked with TLG volunteers before, so she knows how best to utilize me in the classroom and incorporate me into the lesson.

Some of the difficulties we were told that we could encounter included co-teachers who struggle to communicate in English and those that are stuck in the old Soviet ways of pure repetition and memorization as opposed to teaching for actual understanding. Luckily for me, I haven’t had either of these problems. Tamo and I have no problem communicating in English, and she does like to do some activities outside of the book with the students.

Speaking of the books, they are not the greatest, but they could be worse. We use a Macmillan series called English World. Unfortunately, a lot of the lessons and scenarios are not based in anything relevant to the children’s daily lives. There are a lot of invented characters, such as clowns, pirates, and astronauts. The kids really don’t need to know the words “space suit” or “roundabout” when they are struggling with “My name is…”

A shortage of books is a constant problem in our classes. Not all of the students have them, and sometimes the ones that do have them forget to bring them to class. Sometimes we have entire rows of 3 students each with no book to share among them. I recently went on an excursion to pick up my set of books provided by TLG, so at least we will have an extra set from now on.

Despite warnings of behavior problems and general chaos in the schools, my classes are actually quite well behaved. The class sizes are pretty small, ranging from 4 students in my 2^nd grade class to as many as 19 kids when we have 2 of the older grades in a combined lesson. The overall English skill level across all grades is fairly low since my school used to have German as the mandatory foreign-language. They just switched to English last year since it has become compulsory across Georgia.

The class schedule is still a mystery to me. Since we have 7 grades but only 5 lessons per day, this means that one group doesn’t see us each day, and 2 of the other groups are combined into one period. Which group skips a lesson and which groups are combined change on a daily basis. Sometimes the combined class is logical (like 6 and 7 or 5 and 7), but sometimes we get something crazy like 5^th and 2^nd grade in the combined period. This obviously makes it hard to plan, and it is difficult to teach to such different skill levels in one period. I have no idea how the kids know where to go and at what time each day.

One amusing thing I learned is that stickers are excellent motivation for students. I brought a huge variety pack with me, and the kids LOVE them. We give stickers to kids when they do their homework (rare - usually 3 students max out of every 10) or when their team wins a game during class. Georgian kids (like Americans) are competitive, so they get really into the games and lord it over their other classmates when they win a sticker. This is not a society where everyone gets a sticker because every kid is special. Nope, none of that crap. No one here has any problem understanding that you can’t always win, and you don’t get prizes for losing.

I have noticed that an increased number of kids are at least attempting to do their homework in order to get stickers, but mostly they just copy the homework from the few students that do it. I noticed the homework (and mistakes) were identical, so I was able to catch them on it. Guess they thought they could sneak one by the “silly Amerikeli.” As Mitch likes to say, just because I don’t speak Georgian doesn’t mean I’m dumb. The problem is, this isn’t seen as “cheating” in Georgia, it’s seen as “helping,” and what kind of friend would you be if you didn’t let your fellow classmates copy your homework?

Overall, I am enjoying my first attempt at teaching. School here is so different from the US, both in resources and in structure. Regardless, most kids here are eager to learn so long as you keep them motivated and engaged. I’m looking forward to the rest of the semester!

Transportation in Georgia: an exercise in futility

One of the greatest adventures and frustrations thus far in Georgia has been navigating the transportation system.

First of all, accessibility from the villages can be a challenge. Unless you have the good fortune to live on the international road and/or rail line (like our friend Brett), you have to catch one of the few marshutkas (minibuses) into the nearest town before you can travel between towns/cities. In order to make it back to your village, you either have to head home around 4:30pm at the latest on a marshutka or shell out 20x more for a cab ride (it costs .5GEL for marshutka, 10+ GEL for taxi).

Which brings me to the only disagreeable people who constantly try to rip you off that I have encountered in Georgia: taxi drivers. There’s no such thing as a meter here at all (even Egypt had them, though they claimed they were ‘broken’ all the time), so you must bargain for your fare. When it is obvious that you are not Georgian, your price increases significantly.

One of my low points in Georgia happened one night after some other volunteers and I had met up in the nearby town, Lanchkhuti. We were going home later in the evening, so my friend Brett and I decided to share a cab. We greeted the driver in Georgian and asked him how much it would cost to go to Etseri and Nigvziani villages. He said 10 lari. We repeated a few times that we needed to go to Etseri AND Nigvziani. He repeated 10 lari, so we agreed and hopped in.

The driver took us to Brett’s village first, which seemed strange. When Brett got out, he handed the driver a 5, and I had another 5 in my hand for when I got dropped off. The driver started yelling, “10! 10!” We tried to explain that I had the other 5 but that I needed to go to Etseri. He continued to rant and rave, but he wasn’t really naming a different price or asking for more money, just repeating “10!” Eventually he grabbed my 5 and started the car back up.

Concerned that he would demand another 10 lari from me upon arrival at my village, I decided to call my host dad who speaks very good English to see if he could sort things out. They spoke, and the driver hung up and handed my phone back to me. I thanked him in Georgian, but didn’t know what the resolution was. A few moments later, he pulled into a gas station still very FAR from my house, opened the door, and had me get out.

I tried calling my host dad again, but he didn’t answer. It was dark, I was alone, and I was very far from home. As a herd of cows meandered past me, I decided I better start walking toward the house (at least I wasn’t lost!), hoping that perhaps my host dad had told the driver to leave me there with the intention of coming to get me.

After maybe 10 minutes of walking, an SUV with floodlights stopped in front of me, and my host dad hopped out. Amiran to the rescue! He had come in his cousin’s car because his car had stopped (it was on the fritz at the time) across from his cousin’s house. We went back to the house where Gigi was playing with his little cousins and had some fruit, nuts, and my first taste of cha cha. Cha cha is Georgian moonshine, essentially (though most of the alcohol is homemade here – from wine to liquor). After a brief visit with the extended fam, we went back to Amiran’s car which got us the rest of the way home. What had been a temporarily miserable moment turned into a nice visit and provided yet another reason why my host dad is the best.

As for the marshutkas, I actually think that they are a great idea. They are basically shared taxis that run a specific route, but you can hop on and off wherever you like. They are inexpensive and about as efficient as things get in Georgia. Some are local, running routes around a specific city or town; these are often numbered. Other marshutkas run between cities/towns, and even a few to cities outside of Georgia.

The one caveat about these marshutkas is that they get FULL. People are packed in like sardines, with many forced to stand. The only other time I have experienced such an overabundance of humanity in such a confined space was on the P2P (point to point shuttle) on the weekends at Carolina. While you risk getting thrown up on in the P2P, the students do smell a lot better. Trade offs. Though I guess you do risk getting thrown up on in the marshutka if you sit next to Mitch after he’s been forced to drink excessively at a surprise supra. Luckily he managed to contain himself until we made it to our destination (but not a moment longer).

No matter where you’re going in Georgia, when you’re going, or your method of transport, it is best to be flexible because as Mitch said, “the only things that are ‘easy’ in this country are getting muddy and being late.”

Village Life

My host family lives in Etseri Village, near the town of Lanchkhuti in Guria, Georgia. They are great! I have a dad and mom, a 17 year old sister, and a 5 year old brother.

My host dad, Amiran, is super smart and has studied radio engineering, economics, and public relations. He has a black belt in Karate and is well traveled. He’s the head of a local NGO, and his office broadcasts free wifi into the park in Lanchkhuti. He speaks English quite well (better than anyone else’s host family members, it seems) and is so helpful in translating things for me.

My host mom, Ketino, is a great cook and is always telling me to “sit down” and “eat” (in Georgian). She used to work at a tea factory and has a degree in agriculture/nutrition. She teaches me food/kitchen words in Georgian, and I teach them to her in English.

My host sister, Tamuna, is really sweet. She’s a very dedicated student, and she will be off to University next year. Her English is really good as well, though she doesn’t give herself enough credit. She has a private English teacher already, so I mostly just help her by reviewing her exercises and giving her lots of speaking practice J.

Then there’s Gigi. Gigi (Giorgi) is an extremely energetic 5 year old. He’s cute, but a handful. He loves the TV/Computer/IPhone, and usually has a fit if he’s not getting to use at least one of the above at all times. On the plus side, he watches Disney movies (so far Aladdin and Hercules) on repeat. He’s the type of kid that I might be reluctant to babysit, but since his parents are here, I get to just sit back and laugh at his antics. I think he’s getting used to me, and it’s really adorable when he tries to talk to me and then gets annoyed with me because I don’t understand Georgian. Last night he even sat on my lap briefly and then sat next to me and put his head on my shoulder. This would be even more endearing if I hadn’t noticed that he’s been coughing a lot lately and is likely coming down with a cold.

Oh, there’s also the cat named Mahmud. Unlike most pets in Georgia, he is allowed inside the house! He’s a funny Turkish cat. My host dad loves Mahmud the most, and Mahmud reciprocates the affection. My favorite is when my host dad puts Mahmud around his neck. Sometimes Mahmud will sit on my lap as well. There’s also an outside dog, named Cory. She’s cute but always very dirty and muddy, so it’s annoying when she occasionally tries to jump up at me.

My family’s house is nice as well. They even have an indoor Western style toilet, a washing machine, and a hot water heater despite being in a village! As I mentioned, my room is upstairs on a separate level, and the staircase is outside. I have a bedroom and a sitting room, which is really nice. There isn’t any form of insulation, which isn’t a problem yet, but we will see once it gets colder. I did pack warm layers and some hot hands, so I think it will be fine.

My house is about a 15-minute walk from my school, Jurukveti Public School #1. On the way, I dodge cows and pigs, and therefore lots of cow poop as well. I have one co-teacher, Tamo, and we teach together on Tuesday through Thursday. She’s at another school on Monday and Friday, so I technically have those days off. It will give me free time to either travel on weekends, go into Lanchkhuti for the day, or help set up extracurricular activities at my school. We teach grades 1 through 7. More details on school and teaching to come later!

Food in Georgia can be quite tasty, though it is heavy on the carbs. My host mom makes delicious crepes with homemade pear jam and an amazingly moist cake (sadly, the secret for the latter is mayonnaise… oh well). The other night I came back from a day in town to find my host mom making what I am calling both sweet and savory grits! The sweet variety – pelamushi – was flavored with sugar and pear juice. The savory was pretty similar to the grits we have at home, made with cornmeal and salt. Tonight my host mom fried some fish (looked like maybe tilapia?) in a cornmeal coating – delicious! A restaurant in Lanchkhuti makes a dish called “odjakhuri” which consists of delicious bites of pork and the most well seasoned French fries you can find outside of a Bojangles.

The one food I seem to be struggling with here the most is the cheese. You all know how much I love cheese, but this variety is just not agreeing with me. It’s also not my favorite tasting cheese. Probably has something to do with the fact that it is rarely refrigerated and is likely made with unpasteurized milk? Unfortunately this cheese is put in a lot of things (there seem to be an infinite number of cheese stuffed bread dishes in this country), and it can be hard to avoid.

As for hydration needs, I drink a lot of tea. I gave up on the “drink only bottled water” thing despite TLG’s warnings because there just isn’t anywhere to buy it here, and I don’t want to boil it and wait for it to cool every time I want a sip of water. I’m officially drinking the well water now. So far so good, I think?

So far village life is nice and relaxing, and the stars are beautiful with the absence of streetlights! There aren’t many luxurious amenities, and accessibility is a bit of an issue, but overall I have everything I need to be able to live here happily for at least a few months. Everyone here is so friendly and so happy to have a foreigner in the village! A lot of times when I set out to walk somewhere, someone ends up offering me a ride. I would never get in the car with strangers in the US, but here it’s different. Everyone picks each other up because it’s the neighborly thing to do. I like that.

Go Go Guria!

Throughout orientation, there was much speculation over placements, despite the fact that it was totally beyond our control. Finally, the day before we were to be dispersed all over the country, we found out our placement information!

Mitch and I have been placed in Guria, which is apparently considered to be the “back woods” region of Georgia. Some of the things people said about our region include, “oh the people are so nice, but they are like the rednecks of Georgia,” and “if a crazy person escapes an insane asylum and goes to Guria, you won’t catch him because you won’t be able to tell the difference.”

Guria is in Western Georgia, and has a subtropical thanks to its proximity to the Black Sea. Luckily this means that the climate should be fairly similar to that of North Carolina, with limited snow.

Five of the volunteers from my group (Mitch and me included) have been placed in villages not far from the town of Lanchkhuti. My village is called Etseri (grouped together with Jurukveti, apparently, because I work at Jurukveti Public School) and Mitch’s is called Ninoshvili.

The end of orientation was gloriously awkward as it involved host families and/or school representatives coming to pick us up from Tbilisi to take us back to our regions. Nothing like a multi-hour car ride with strangers who don’t speak your language!

The meet and greet went a little something like this: timid volunteers on one side of the hotel lobby, with eager Georgians on the other, facing one another as our names were read one by one and we were introduced to our hosts.

For those of us in the Lanchkhuti district of Guria, our school representatives came to pick us up in a big passenger-van (or “Marshutka” as it’s called here). We secured our luggage to the roof of this van. Melody would have been freaking out at this point. Then we piled in – five TLG volunteers, five old Georgian men (our school principals), and a young guy who is a Marshutka driver in Lanchkhuti.

We began our journey by promptly going the exact opposite direction of where we needed to be going, eventually making it back to the hotel in Tbilisi after an hour of being lost and asking directions every 2 minutes. This segment of the trip is also known as our accidental visit to Rustavi (which we’ve dubbed the Compton of Georgia, for the record).

Since we hadn’t had any lunch and clearly wouldn’t be making it to Guria until late at night, we decided to snack on Mitch’s stash of Kashi granola bars while the old man had all jumped out to argue about and ask directions. Mitch, being the painfully considerate person that he often is, suggested that we save some of the granola bars to offer to the old guys.

Ever the obedient one, when they climbed back in, I tried offering them the 2^nd half of my granola bar. The three men behind me understood the pantomime and declined without incident, but for some reason the one next to me and Michelle was less skilled in charades and felt the need to call his daughter, who also happens to be my co-teacher, to translate. It went something like this:

Me: “Oh, it was nothing really, I was just trying to offer him a piece of my granola bar.”

Her: “What? Can you repeat? Can you speak more slowly? I am having trouble hearing and understanding.”

Me: “Oh, sorry! I just was trying to share my food with him.”

Her: “Oh, you want food?”

Me: “No, no! I don’t need food, I have food. I have food, and I wanted to share with him.”

They then spoke to one another again in Georgian and when he handed the phone back to me, she told me:

Her: “He says thank you, but you will be stopping at a restaurant in a few hours and then you can have food.”

At this point, it was still unclear to me whether she understood that I wasn’t asking for food.

A bit later, we stopped at a roadside fruit stand. The men bought apples and Churchkhela (a traditional Georgian dessert/snack of nuts and dried fruits on a string, covered in boiled grape juice mixed with flour to create a protective coating. The result looks like a wax candle, so Mitch appropriately calls them ‘nut candles’) while we took pictures of the massive double rainbow that had appeared.

When we got back in the van, the men insisted we eat the apples and Churchkhela, and I couldn’t help but think that my earlier communication issue may have either inadvertently or passive aggressively goaded them into buying us food. I blame Mitch!

Probably an hour or so later, we stopped at a restaurant. The men spoke with the woman at the counter, and a massive feast was delivered to our table. We had bread, cheese, cucumbers, onions, tomatoes, skewers of delicious meat, and some grapes they had bought at the fruit stand (there doesn’t appear to be any concept of a ‘no outside food or drink’ policy thus far in Georgia).

Then came the vodka! We were given shot glasses and so that we could participate in a number of toasts (to us, to Georgia, to the dead, to love, to friendship, etc). Even though most of us wanted to be done with the vodka shots after the 2^nd one, how can you decline a toast to the dead? We ended up taking ~6.5 shots each. Thank goodness for the bottles of pear soda on the table that we were able to use as a chaser!

In the middle of these festivities, another group of TLG volunteers came in to the same restaurant. This group had about 20 people crammed on a Marshutka headed for the Adjara region (directly south of Guria). In a wonderful twist of irony, our old men forced one of the guys from this other group to participate in one of our rounds of shots, and he happened to still be hung-over from being a drunk asshole throughout the entire orientation (despite the fact that we had been asked repeatedly to not drink since the training week was considered to be paid work for us).

After this feast, the other volunteers took the opportunity to use the bathroom before piling back into the van, but I declined. I honestly didn’t feel like I needed to go, but I also suspected that these facilities were not ones that I would want to use. I just wasn’t ready to give up the cushy Western style bathroom habits I had been enjoying at the hotel in Tbilisi (the other volunteers later confirmed that I was right).

A little over an hour later, I was regretting that decision as the 6+ vodka shots had worked their way through my system. I needed to go to the bathroom, but I didn’t want to be THAT girl. Around this time, we hit a traffic jam, and the men decided to hop out of the car to stretch their legs. I saw a sign for a Gulf gas station nearby that said it had a “WC”, so I mentioned that I needed to make a bathroom stop. One of the guys called some English speaker just to tell me over the phone that they would stop at the next available place for me to use the toilet… embarrassing. Then the traffic started moving, so we had to frantically run back into the van, and one of the old guys had to pull the door back open and make a running leap back into the car because we almost left him! Everyone found this hilarious. It would have been funnier to me if I weren’t still doing the pee pee dance in my seat and worrying about what type of bathroom we would be stopping at.

The Gulf gas station was indeed the next stopping point. I brought Michelle into the bathroom with me to make me look less silly. The bathroom was super clean and Western style!!! There were, however, no doors on the stalls, so I told Michelle that her company was no longer needed. Best surprise ever for a roadside stop in the middle of nowhere in Georgia. Looks like being “that person” paid off.

A few hours later, we pulled off into a gas station between two forks in the road. Apparently this is where we were parting ways.

My host father arrived a moment later to take me back to his house where the family was waiting with a nice dinner, complete with more toasting. I was still quite full and uninterested in alcohol thanks to our earlier feast, so I was only able to eat a little bit. Luckily for me, they gave me chocolate liqueur instead of vodka, so I was able to take just small sips for the toasts.

At the end of the dinner, I was shown upstairs to my room, which is actually my own entire floor, with an external staircase. I gratefully fell asleep the moment my head hit the pillow.